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Why can't I get rid of this darn flickering in my videos?

Apollo11capcom

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I took the Evo out to some open country today to try some long distance flying and a few intellegent flights for the first time and in every video I have this darn annoying flickering going on. I believe the last Evo I had (which was exchanged for unrelated reasons) did the same thing. I thought it was changing through different exposure settings so I made a point to lock exposure for these videos but it's still there. It's like a horizontal flash traveling from top to bottom about once a second, like it's constantly trying to correct for something. I have everything on auto. What is it doing? What am i missing here? I can post an example if anyone would like to see it.
 
Can you post a video of what you are describing. I want to make sure it's the drone and not a bad cable or your mobile device.
 
I tried, it said the file extension wasn't allowed. I'l see if i can upload it somewhere and link to it.
 
Here we go...

It doesn't seem quite as pronounced on the youtube version, idk if it's just the size or something to do with the compression. It's there, just not as obvious as the original on my computer.
 
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Here we go...

It doesn't seem quite as pronounced on the youtube version, idk if it's just the size or something to do with the compression. It's there, just not as obvious as the original on my computer.
I saw the flickering on the video. Looks more like frame skipping. Are you using the SD card that came with your drone or are you using a different one. If so, make sure it's Class 10 U3. If you are using a slower model, the drone skips frame to slow down the saving of the video onto the SD card.
 
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I saw the flickering on the video. Looks more like frame skipping. Are you using the SD card that came with your drone or are you using a different one. If so, make sure it's Class 10 U3. If you are using a slower model, the drone skips frame to slow down the saving of the video onto the SD card.
I transferred it from the Evos sd card to the smaller card that I use in my phone which is an older card. Time to investigate that...

Edit- I am using the card that came with the Evo in the Evo, the transfer happened after i got home so I could watch it on my phone. That wouldn't cause frame skipping, right? You're saying the Evo would do that while recording?

Edit #2- the card I transferred it to in my phone is a C4 (apparently the slowest), maybe my phones card just isn't fast enough to play the video correctly.
 
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I took the Evo out to some open country today to try some long distance flying and a few intellegent flights for the first time and in every video I have this darn annoying flickering going on. I believe the last Evo I had (which was exchanged for unrelated reasons) did the same thing. I thought it was changing through different exposure settings so I made a point to lock exposure for these videos but it's still there. It's like a horizontal flash traveling from top to bottom about once a second, like it's constantly trying to correct for something. I have everything on auto. What is it doing? What am i missing here? I can post an example if anyone would like to see it.
@Apollo11capcom the correct term is aliasing. It is common with all cameras especially cameras with rolling shutters. I shoot a lot of agriculture video. Even my 1" Sony's have this occur when shooting out of a helicopter. I have found two fixes for it. First shoot in 60fps then convert to 1080p30. If you have a frame blending option use it. The second is most edit programs have a tool called "antialiasing" It softens up the video a bit but will eliminate the effect you are experiencing. Using an ND will also help to get the exposure value closer to 120 which is double the frame rate when shooting 60fps and eliminate some of the aliasing. You need to get out of auto mode to make this work. Good luck!
 
@Apollo11capcom the correct term is aliasing. It is common with all cameras especially cameras with rolling shutters. I shoot a lot of agriculture video. Even my 1" Sony's have this occur when shooting out of a helicopter. I have found two fixes for it. First shoot in 60fps then convert to 1080p30. If you have a frame blending option use it. The second is most edit programs have a tool called "antialiasing" It softens up the video a bit but will eliminate the effect you are experiencing. Using an ND will also help to get the exposure value closer to 120 which is double the frame rate when shooting 60fps and eliminate some of the aliasing. You need to get out of auto mode to make this work. Good luck!
Which ND do you recommend? I just got the filters and don't have an idea on how to apply them.
 
+1, I was just looking at filters, any input would be appreciated.
@Apollo11capcom Freewell has a decent, inexpensive set of filters made for the EVO that let you leave the filter on and you can still put on the gimbal/camera guard. Buy straight ND filters. I suggest getting the entire set from ND4 through ND64. Do not get the ND/PL polarizing filters as the outer ring rotates to polarize light sources. These are OK for static cameras on the ground but will move from the vibration of the drone. There are charts that will give you info on what ND to use in certain situations. The rule of thumb is to get an exposure value that is double the frame rate. In theory this sounds easy but you will have to experiment with it. Ideally you want your ISO at 100 and EV at 120 if shooting 60 fps. That said the conditions you are shooting in will dictate what level of ND you will want to use.
 
@Apollo11capcom Freewell has a decent, inexpensive set of filters made for the EVO that let you leave the filter on and you can still put on the gimbal/camera guard. Buy straight ND filters. I suggest getting the entire set from ND4 through ND64. Do not get the ND/PL polarizing filters as the outer ring rotates to polarize light sources. These are OK for static cameras on the ground but will move from the vibration of the drone. There are charts that will give you info on what ND to use in certain situations. The rule of thumb is to get an exposure value that is double the frame rate. In theory this sounds easy but you will have to experiment with it. Ideally you want your ISO at 100 and EV at 120 if shooting 60 fps. That said the conditions you are shooting in will dictate what level of ND you will want to use.
If I'm at the beach, which filter would you recommend? I flew last Sunday with the ND4 and PL filters. My problem with the ND4 was the reflection of the water and with the PL over exposure.
 
When ever I am flying around water or even now in the winter with all the white snow I will use a PL filter. Depending on how bright it is on that day will determine which number I will use. For the most part a ND16PL should do the trick. If you are getting over exposure then I am thinking you are over compensating the EV setting because your phone screen looks darker to you. In that case I would use the Over Exposure Warning in the camera settings just to set up your shot and then you can turn it off if it bothers you.
 
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When ever I am flying around water or even now in the winter with all the white snow I will use a PL filter. Depending on how bright it is on that day will determine which number I will use. For the most part a ND16PL should do the trick. If you are getting over exposure then I am thinking you are over compensating the EV setting because your phone screen looks darker to you. In that case I would use the Over Exposure Warning in the camera settings just to set up your shot and then you can turn it off if it bothers you.
My PL and ND16 are different filters. I don't know if my ND16 has polarization. I did have the zebra stripes on, but sometimes I pay no mind, since the photo comes out with great details even when the EV is in auto. Funny thing is, the video came out perfect, except for the sun reflection on the water. So it makes no sense for the photo to come out ove rexposed when it was taken while recording.
 
@Apollo11capcom Freewell has a decent, inexpensive set of filters made for the EVO that let you leave the filter on and you can still put on the gimbal/camera guard. Buy straight ND filters. I suggest getting the entire set from ND4 through ND64. Do not get the ND/PL polarizing filters as the outer ring rotates to polarize light sources. These are OK for static cameras on the ground but will move from the vibration of the drone. There are charts that will give you info on what ND to use in certain situations. The rule of thumb is to get an exposure value that is double the frame rate. In theory this sounds easy but you will have to experiment with it. Ideally you want your ISO at 100 and EV at 120 if shooting 60 fps. That said the conditions you are shooting in will dictate what level of ND you will want to use.
Im going to order the Freewell All Day 8 filter set today and see what i can do with it. It does seem like a really good deal for what you get. Thanks again for the advice.
 
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That flickering is called GOP flicker, it is because key frames are set at intervals of 8 you can change this rate in some video editors.
 

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