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Some ND Filter Clarity (see what i did there :-))

Eddiebo

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Hello,

First of all I'm pretty new to this whole thing so please excuse any of my "rookieness".

So in the attempt to get some really sharp and colorful images/video I bought myself a set of Neewer ND Filters. Of course I probably should have known how to use them first but what's the fun of that?

Anyway. . . Two questions (lots of words):

In reading posts on this forum and watching YouTube videos I've learned quite a bit. But in THIS very useful video, which is specific to the DJI, they mention a displayed value in the app that I don't believe is available to X-Star users. I wanted to see if there's someway for us to do the same thing.

At about :45 into the video he talks about how to determine the best ND filter to use. He says to set the video to 4k at 24fps, then the ISO to 100 and the shutter value to 50. All makes sense. But then on the bottom he has a reading that says +2.0 which he says tells us that we are two stops overexposed. THATS what I think we're missing with the X-Star. With this value he then determines that in manual mode we'll want to use a ND 4 filter which is a 2 stop reduction. Using this filter will optically correct the +2 value that was displayed making for a great video.

So my question. . . Does that value display anywhere in the Autel software? If not, what's the best way to pick which ND filter to use?

The second question . . . The filters I have also have a PL filter (ring). How does that work?

THANKS for any feedback.
 
When in the starlink app simply turn the right finger wheel at the top of the controller to change this value (at least it is set on mine as the default to change by the wheel on startup)...it is the aperture setting and how much light is passed through...turn the wheel and the image will get darker and lighter.
 
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When in the starlink app simply turn the right finger wheel at the top of the controller to change this value (at least it is set on mine as the default to change by the wheel on startup)...it is the aperture setting and how much light is passed through...turn the wheel and the image will get darker and lighter.

Thanks much intrepiddusa. Yes, that wheel works great to adjust the exposure. But what I'm looking for is a way to assist me in making the selection of the correct filter type.
 
You have to experiment. Clear day, take 4 quick consecutive videos ,one with each filter and one with none. Do a 360 up about 200 feet. Play around with the exposure dial. Compare and see what you like. Do some sunsets and sunrises. I live near the Atlantic and have some awesome photos of a sunrise with the middle and lowest Neewer.I will post one tomorrow.
 
You have to experiment. Clear day, take 4 quick consecutive videos ,one with each filter and one with none. Do a 360 up about 200 feet. Play around with the exposure dial. Compare and see what you like. Do some sunsets and sunrises. I live near the Atlantic and have some awesome photos of a sunrise with the middle and lowest Neewer.I will post one tomorrow.
Thanks a ton! Will do!
 
Interesting info, ty! Coming from a professional photographer background, I’ve used rotating polarizing (CP) filters for decades, but rarely used ND’s. Drone video presents interesting issues I’ve never before encountered. With 80% of my outdoor earthbound photography, I use a CP for color enhancement and glare reduction. I’ve had good CP results with XSP Photo & Videos too, except for the dreaded “jello” effect in harsh, bright light. I’ve found titling the camera slightly earthward eliminates most of this effect, but it’s less than ideal if the sky is an essential part of the composition. Any insights into the proper use of ND’s flying into a bright sky (backlighting), would be welcome!
 
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These were taken with #8 filters, and no filter. no color work is done on them
 

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  • #8 lens 8-18 (10).JPG
    #8 lens 8-18 (10).JPG
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  • #8 lens 8-18 (13).JPG
    #8 lens 8-18 (13).JPG
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  • Sunset no filter MAX_0001 (2).JPG
    Sunset no filter MAX_0001 (2).JPG
    4.7 MB · Views: 24
  • Sunset no filter MAX_0001 (15).JPG
    Sunset no filter MAX_0001 (15).JPG
    5 MB · Views: 23
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I use an ND16 for most daytime lighting conditions...my 4, 8 and 32 spend a lot of time sitting in the case. I freely admit that I'm a lazy photographer so the 16 does the trick for me 90% of the time...in fact, I just leave it on the camera and rarely swap it out unless skies are very overcast. I use the ND filter to slow things down a bit for a more cinematic feel in real estate shoots...I agree with the folks who advise you to experiment so you get a good understanding of how they work....when you start reviewing your filtered vids you'll never go back to a naked lens...the difference is quite dramatic.
 
So, is it easier to be a pilot and learn photography or a photographer and learn to fly? Potato/Tomato..... I think the later, maybe because I struggle with it. It's like that one subject in school you just couldn't get your head wrapped around. Hence, I appreciate all the perspectives/advice.

If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. The technique that seems to work for me is to avoid pointing the camera into/toward the sun (if possible). I know, that makes me a "poor mans photographer". So-be-it.
 
Hey great minds think alike....I keep the camera down at all times as well...it works....see, you've gone pro and you didn't realize it:)
 
Interesting info, ty! Coming from a professional photographer background, I’ve used rotating polarizing (CP) filters for decades, but rarely used ND’s. Drone video presents interesting issues I’ve never before encountered. With 80% of my outdoor earthbound photography, I use a CP for color enhancement and glare reduction. I’ve had good CP results with XSP Photo & Videos too, except for the dreaded “jello” effect in harsh, bright light. I’ve found titling the camera slightly earthward eliminates most of this effect, but it’s less than ideal if the sky is an essential part of the composition. Any insights into the proper use of ND’s flying into a bright sky (backlighting), would be welcome!
An ND filter should clear up the jello/rolling shutter effect.
 
Number one rule for UAV photography is never shoot into the sun, I seem to never remember that rule :)

View attachment 1825
Nice! ND? If so which one? Like I said, I know less than Jack about ND filters other than they block light. I think I used one once for a 5 sec waterfall time exposure 20 years ago. How does it remove the jelly affect? By slowing the rolling shutter down?
 
Nice! ND? If so which one? Like I said, I know less than Jack about ND filters other than they block light. I think I used one once for a 5 sec waterfall time exposure 20 years ago. How does it remove the jelly affect? By slowing the rolling shutter down?
It changes your shutter speed.
 
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Anybody put a polarizer AND an ND 16 together:).
You won't find stackable filters for drones, as the weight would be too much for the gimbal motors. But, you can buy combo cp/nd filters from Tiffen, PolarPro, and Neewer. I would steer away from Neewer. You get what you pay for. PolarPro is "middle of the road", and halfway decent.
 

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