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Photo settings on lite plus

Borealis

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Hello,
just got my Lite Plus and flew over to some mountain right from front door to look at some dall sheep that hang around the area. Video footage was outstanding with whatever settings I chose but I could not prevent the blown highlights on some of the sheep on the DNG files. The only software I have to deal with the DNG files is Affinity Photo but generally I use DXO PL5 for my other cameras. I'm kind of poor with Affinity and also seems I have a way to go with the drone settings especially when I can't see how things may look like while I take to footage/photos. Question: is there a way to choose your video settings and also have the photo settings saved seperadly without me having to change things too much while in the air. For the more close-up shots I need to concentrate on the Safety of the drone (high guts of wind are normal in this area) and not fiddle too much with the camera settings... I do realize that I have lots to learn ( as always in life)... but was just wondering...
attached are some files plus one of the valley my house is at or where I started out from to get to the rams sheep2.jpg rams.jpg MAX_0020DXO.jpg
 

herein2021

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Hello,
just got my Lite Plus and flew over to some mountain right from front door to look at some dall sheep that hang around the area. Video footage was outstanding with whatever settings I chose but I could not prevent the blown highlights on some of the sheep on the DNG files. The only software I have to deal with the DNG files is Affinity Photo but generally I use DXO PL5 for my other cameras. I'm kind of poor with Affinity and also seems I have a way to go with the drone settings especially when I can't see how things may look like while I take to footage/photos. Question: is there a way to choose your video settings and also have the photo settings saved seperadly without me having to change things too much while in the air. For the more close-up shots I need to concentrate on the Safety of the drone (high guts of wind are normal in this area) and not fiddle too much with the camera settings... I do realize that I have lots to learn ( as always in life)... but was just wondering...
attached are some files plus one of the valley my house is at or where I started out from to get to the rams View attachment 14265 View attachment 14266 View attachment 14267

I have the EVO II 6K Pro so I can't answer the settings questions but for the rest the best thing to use is the Histogram assuming the Lite+'s app offers that. I use the histogram and with the EVO II 6K the DR is so wide that as long as the top isn't clipping everything else can be recovered.

From your images the only thing that looks over exposed to me is a few of the sheep, and it is possible there is no way around that considering the fact they were white and hit with direct sunlight while you also were trying not to crush the shadows of the mountain. There may still be some details in the highs for the sheep so you could try brushing in a -0.5 stop for the over exposed sheep to see if you can save some details. Using a selective brush or mask will keep the rest of the image from dropping into under exposed territory. I use Lightroom so I have no idea how to do that in Affinity but I am sure there is a way.

I would also increase the shutter speed a bit to overcome the camera shake caused by the winds. I think the image could be a bit sharper if you keep the shutter speed over 1/400s, but I am not sure since my only reference point is the EVO II 6K's sharpness.
 
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Borealis

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Thanks, your advice pointed me in the right direction. I had the camera settings similar to what I did for video at that time. I kind of overlooked that you can/have to set them separately.... went up and did a similar session and took my time checking on the settings. This time there were no storm clouds nearby and I was more relaxed etc. and yes I made sure my shutter speeds were higher (opened aparture up ) for optimum sharpness which was something you rightfully pointed out as well.
 
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herein2021

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Thanks, your advice pointed me in the right direction. I had the camera settings similar to what I did for video at that time. I kind of overlooked that you can/have to set them separately.... went up and did a similar session and took my time checking on the settings. This time there were no storm clouds nearby and I was more relaxed etc. and yes I made sure my shutter speeds were higher (opened aparture up ) for optimum sharpness which was something you rightfully pointed out as well.

That is good to hear, I figured the Nano's camera was sharper than that. I tend to use F5.6, ISO100, Daylight WB, and a shutter speed of 1/400s or higher when shooting photography in daylight. At night I use F2.8, ISO800, and a shutter speed of 1/30s.

For daylight video I use F11, ISO100, Daylight WB and a typical shutter speed of 1/320s. At night I use F2.8, ISO800, a shutter speed of 1/30s and a WB of 3600K.

These threads could help you as well for future projects. They are just my own personal decisions after shooting many different commercial video and photography projects with drones and regular cameras.

Why I Never Shoot Video At 24FPS

Why I Never Use CPL Filters With Drone Cameras

Autel EVO II Pro - User Experience from a DJI User

EXPLORE YOUR WORLD: An Autel EVO II Pro 6K Cinematic Story

Why I ALWAYS use Daylight WB with Drone Cameras
 

Borealis

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Thanks again for the tips. And just to tell you right here, I actually read some of your threads before mainly the ND filter discussion and have to say that I could not understand the use of them for most shooting situation as pointed out. I do own some for my DSLR photography. I will read through all threads again just for good measure and take some notes so I don't forget about the small detail.
So far my video image quality of my evo lite plus is a positive surprise on all accounts (for the money spend). The photo quality is also better than expected and will keep me happy for some time to come!
 
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