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Orbit Test Evo2 V3 - 4K and 6K

Just keep in mind that the EVO II 6K Pro isn't really 6K at all. The title for the EVO is just more marketing BS and its maximum resolution is really around 5.4K. Also, anything over 4K30FPS and it drops down to 8bit color. So 4K60FPS and 5.4K is 8bit color.

IMO 8bit is perfectly fine for drone footage since the footage won't need the level of color grading that you would typically see with cinema camera footage, but to some people 8bit vs 10bit is important. The 5.4K is a nice to have though, if you are delivering at 4K then shooting in 5.4K lets you losslessly punch in a bit, but personally I just stick with 4K out of my EVO II Pro mainly because 5.4K doesn't offer 60FPS. If you want to read about more quirks of the EVO II 6K, you can check out my review thread here.
 
Just keep in mind that the EVO II 6K Pro isn't really 6K at all. The title for the EVO is just more marketing BS and its maximum resolution is really around 5.4K. Also, anything over 4K30FPS and it drops down to 8bit color. So 4K60FPS and 5.4K is 8bit color.

IMO 8bit is perfectly fine for drone footage since the footage won't need the level of color grading that you would typically see with cinema camera footage, but to some people 8bit vs 10bit is important. The 5.4K is a nice to have though, if you are delivering at 4K then shooting in 5.4K lets you losslessly punch in a bit, but personally I just stick with 4K out of my EVO II Pro mainly because 5.4K doesn't offer 60FPS. If you want to read about more quirks of the EVO II 6K, you can check out my review thread here.
Thanks, will read the review
 
Try orbit mode on a more far object, not topdown. From all my Autel drones object wasn't in center after few seconds. Maybe V3 has better performance. Can you check? Also try hyperlapse orbit and share your experience.
 
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Try orbit mode on a more far object, not topdown. From all my Autel drones object wasn't in center after few seconds. Maybe V3 has better performance. Can you check? Also try hyperlapse orbit and share your experience.
I will give that try today and post back here
 
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Shot a small Orbit test with the V3 testing the visual differences between the 4K and 6K shooting modes

Looks like EV -1 step could also help the PRO V3 in AE mode when green or darker (light absorbing) areas make a large portion of the framing like the water surface does here. I always use shutter priority AE with EV -1 in order to get structured whites on light absorbing background. I.e. when it comes to distinguish between seagull species among black rock surface ...
 
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Try orbit mode on a more far object, not topdown. From all my Autel drones object wasn't in center after few seconds. Maybe V3 has better performance. Can you check? Also try hyperlapse orbit and share your experience.

I always manually orbit, I have never use any of the automatic modes. With a little practice you will be able to orbit far more accurately and around any chosen object better than any automatic mode; something that helps greatly is turning on the center cross hairs which help you correct your rotation before it is visible to the viewer. Also, once you learn how to properly manually orbit you can do so around moving objects, odd shaped objects, and when there are strong crosswinds which turn into headwinds and tailwinds as you complete your orbit. The one exception is hyperlapses, with a hyperlapse there is no way to produce one other than with an automatic mode.

@surenmunoo this is really good advice from @Admund the main goal of an orbit is to create the parallax effect where the background moves faster than the foreground. To create that effect, you need to be as close to parallel as possible to the target object. It is even more visually effective if the drone is below the target object or nearly level with it.

Another visually appealing variation on the orbit is what I call the arc reveal; that's where you are partially orbiting clockwise or counterclockwise around a chosen subject but also flying backwards to reveal the object at the same time. I demonstrate this movement at the 2:09 mark in the following video. I use arc reveals quite a bit in my videos because there are many times where you cannot safely perform a full orbit around an object due to obstructions or other reasons but at the same time you want the parallax effect and need to reveal the object.

If you notice in the following video nearly all of the objects were moving and there were strong winds for most of the video; years of practice helped me hide all of the challenges from the viewers. No automatic modes would have gotten me the quality I wanted for the video.

 
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I always manually orbit, I have never use any of the automatic modes. With a little practice you will be able to orbit far more accurately and around any chosen object better than any automatic mode; something that helps greatly is turning on the center cross hairs which help you correct your rotation before it is visible to the viewer. Also, once you learn how to properly manually orbit you can do so around moving objects, odd shaped objects, and when there are strong crosswinds which turn into headwinds and tailwinds as you complete your orbit. The one exception is hyperlapses, with a hyperlapse there is no way to produce one other than with an automatic mode.

@surenmunoo this is really good advice from @Admund the main goal of an orbit is to create the parallax effect where the background moves faster than the foreground. To create that effect, you need to be as close to parallel as possible to the target object. It is even more visually effective if the drone is below the target object or nearly level with it.

Another visually appealing variation on the orbit is what I call the arc reveal; that's where you are partially orbiting clockwise or counterclockwise around a chosen subject but also flying backwards to reveal the object at the same time. I demonstrate this movement at the 2:09 mark in the following video. I use arc reveals quite a bit in my videos because there are many times where you cannot safely perform a full orbit around an object due to obstructions or other reasons but at the same time you want the parallax effect and need to reveal the object.

If you notice in the following video nearly all of the objects were moving and there were strong winds for most of the video; years of practice helped me hide all of the challenges from the viewers. No automatic modes would have gotten me the quality I wanted for the video.

Hi, yes i know how to make parallax effect with drone ;) here is one of mine.
 
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