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Maybe the best 7" now 8" tablet for drone flying? TRIPLTEK

Hi Third Eye, IMO that's still not ideal since the Tablet will take current from the controller when in operation. The tablet power requirement is much greater than the controller power needs.

Regards,
Richard
Perhaps not ideal for some folks but the power draw is minimal and does not hinder any operations that I perform. It does not overheat and I can see the bright crystal display in 3:00pm sunlight here in Texas so it's ideal for me.
 
Hi Third Eye, you can buy the reduced power cable here:

Yeah, that's expensive. An alternative I am told is to cut a USB cable black wire and insert a 39 ohm 1 watt resistor. Too bad that Autel can't give us the option to charge or not charge our phone/tablet.

Regards,
Richard
Hi, I measured the current that the Tripltek tablet draws from the EVO II controller using the common USB A to USB-C cable, theTripltek reduced power cable, and home made adapters. The current draws:
Common cable = 0.808 A
Tripltek cable = 0.054 A
20 ohm resistor in ground line = 0.037 A
39 ohm resistor in ground line = 0.009 A

Each of these launch the Evo Explorer app, but I would use the 20 ohm resistor to ensure reliable connection.

If you want to make your own adapter and/or start a cottage industry selling adapters, here is the hardware source:

Regards,
Richard
 
Hi, I measured the current that the Tripltek tablet draws from the EVO II controller using the common USB A to USB-C cable, theTripltek reduced power cable, and home made adapters. The current draws:
Common cable = 0.808 A
Tripltek cable = 0.054 A
20 ohm resistor in ground line = 0.037 A
39 ohm resistor in ground line = 0.009 A

Each of these launch the Evo Explorer app, but I would use the 20 ohm resistor to ensure reliable connection.

If you want to make your own adapter and/or start a cottage industry selling adapters, here is the hardware source:

Regards,
Richard
Hi Richard,
Did you craft your own cable from scratch, or did you cut into a USB-C cable and put the resistor in on the ground wire? I tried doing this on several cables that I had laying around...all failed to work after.
It's not hard to put a resistor inline on the ground, so I don't know where the screw up is/was.
 
Hi Richard,
Did you craft your own cable from scratch, or did you cut into a USB-C cable and put the resistor in on the ground wire? I tried doing this on several cables that I had laying around...all failed to work after.
It's not hard to put a resistor inline on the ground, so I don't know where the screw up is/was.
Hi Quad, I never modified a USB-A to USB-C cable, just constructed the adapters described in my post. IMO there isn't any reason why modifying an existing USB-A to USB-C cable shouldn't work. The four wires in a USB-A to USB-C cable are:
USB Ground : Black
USB Data + : Blue
USB Data - : White
USB Vcc : Red
One needs to cut the USB Ground (black wire) and solder the resister to each end of the cut USB Ground wire. The resistor must be 39 ohms or less, 20 ohms preferred.
If that doesn't work, I suspect that the resistor value isn't what you think it is. Double check with an ohmmeter. Hope this helps.

BTW, do you have a YouTube channel, 808-State? IMO that YouTube channel always contains valuable information on the EVO II Pro and accessories like the Sky Fire Aerial tablet mounts. I learn a lot from and always look forward to new 808-State videos.

Regards,
Richard
 
Hi Quad, I never modified a USB-A to USB-C cable, just constructed the adapters described in my post. IMO there isn't any reason why modifying an existing USB-A to USB-C cable shouldn't work. The four wires in a USB-A to USB-C cable are:
USB Ground : Black
USB Data + : Blue
USB Data - : White
USB Vcc : Red
One needs to cut the USB Ground (black wire) and solder the resister to each end of the cut USB Ground wire. The resistor must be 39 ohms or less, 20 ohms preferred.
If that doesn't work, I suspect that the resistor value isn't what you think it is. Double check with an ohmmeter. Hope this helps.

BTW, do you have a YouTube channel, 808-State? IMO that YouTube channel always contains valuable information on the EVO II Pro and accessories like the Sky Fire Aerial tablet mounts. I learn a lot from and always look forward to new 808-State videos.

Regards,
Richard
I should be getting my 39 ohm, 1W resistors today and will "mod" a usb-c cable to use with the TT tablet.
I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron so, it should be an easy, worthwhile project.

I also watched a lot of 808-states' YouTube videos when trying to decide which drone and gear to purchase. Very informative contributor!
 
sorry guys, 808State is not me...but we do live in the same state!
The cables I modded had I think 8 wires, not 4. Your adapter idea is a whole lot easier!

I can see value in an adapter like this....I wonder why no one makes them, and at $40 for a cable, TRIPLTEK is out of their minds.
 
Hi Quad, I never modified a USB-A to USB-C cable, just constructed the adapters described in my post. IMO there isn't any reason why modifying an existing USB-A to USB-C cable shouldn't work. The four wires in a USB-A to USB-C cable are:
USB Ground : Black
USB Data + : Blue
USB Data - : White
USB Vcc : Red
One needs to cut the USB Ground (black wire) and solder the resister to each end of the cut USB Ground wire. The resistor must be 39 ohms or less, 20 ohms preferred.
If that doesn't work, I suspect that the resistor value isn't what you think it is. Double check with an ohmmeter. Hope this helps.
I cut open the USB-A to USB-C cable I was using between my TT tablet and Autel controller and there was not a "black" wire in the bunch. It was a 3-conductor, shielded cable with only red, white, & green conductors. I ohm'd the outer shielding to the connectors metal ends and there was continuity so, I'm wondering if in the USB-C cables they are using the outside shielding for the ground thereby replacing the black wire normally found in USB-A to USB-B cables?
 

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I cut open the USB-A to USB-C cable I was using between my TT tablet and Autel controller and there was not a "black" wire in the bunch. It was a 3-conductor, shielded cable with only red, white, & green conductors. I ohm'd the outer shielding to the connectors metal ends and there was continuity so, I'm wondering if in the USB-C cables they are using the outside shielding for the ground thereby replacing the black wire normally found in USB-A to USB-B cables?
I just verified that, that's what is happening....I cut the outer shielding leaving only the red, green, & white wires and plugged it into the TT tablet and autel controller and powered both of them up. The TT would not show "charging" but as soon as I pressed the shielding back together, the TT starting showing that it was now charging and the autel explorer app automatically popped up on the TT tablet. The next test is to temporarily connect the outside shielding to the 39 ohm resistor and see if the explorer app pops up again. I'll also plug my inline usb volt/amp tester in to see the resistor is "blocking" the charging functionality of the usb cable.


UPDATE:
Ok, this is what I found....

There are 3 bare conductors inside the shielding that were twisted with the red, green & white conductors. I found them when I was pulling the outside cable braiding away from the cable. I had already cut the bare wires along with the outside braiding because they all looked alike and I didn't realize they were part of the twisted conductors inside the cable. Anyhow, I temporarily twisted the cut ends of the bare grounds and connected them to the 39 ohm resistor. I plugged my inline usb tester into the autel controller, plugged one end of the usb-c cable into the TT table and the other end into the controller. I powered on the TT first and then powered on the controller and the explorer app automatically popped up and the charging symbol on the TT showed "charging." I looked at the inline usb tester that was plugged into the controller and it did not show any amperage flowing from the controller to the TT tablet!

Now onto making the connections permanent!
 

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I am very tempted to order the supplies linked above and make some easy to use usb adapters like Richard did. But I don't need 100 thousand resistors!
 
I am very tempted to order the supplies linked above and make some easy to use usb adapters like Richard did. But I don't need 100 thousand resistors!
I'd be happy to send you some of mine...I just got 100 of the 39 ohm, 1w types from Amazon today. PM me your address and let me know how many you want....
 
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Not my best work but, the cable is functional and it still routes perfectly between the controller & TT tablet.

I can tell you those individual wires are very SMALL to work with and extremely hard to get soldered! I can thoroughly see why Autel charges $40! I had to cut everything loose and re-solder the wires a second time to get it working correctly. I found out the hard way not to re-connect the braiding just under the cable jacket.

I think I would rather work with the adapters in ssb73q's post #183....
 
Not my best work but, the cable is functional and it still routes perfectly between the controller & TT tablet.

I can tell you those individual wires are very SMALL to work with and extremely hard to get soldered! I can thoroughly see why Autel charges $40! I had to cut everything loose and re-solder the wires a second time to get it working correctly. I found out the hard way not to re-connect the braiding just under the cable jacket.

I think I would rather work with the adapters in ssb73q's post #183....
for some reason, my pictures upload to my post but won't show up...I'll try again tomorrow.
 
for some reason, my pictures upload to my post but won't show up...I'll try again tomorrow.
Hi Ranger, IMO 20 ohms will make for a more reliable cable to use than 39 ohns. Put two 39 ohm resistors in parallel.

Just for grins I measured the resistance of the $40 Tripltek cable:
USB Ground: 13 ohms
USB Data +: 0 ohms
USB Data -: 0 ohms
USB Vcc: 0 ohms
However, there was a surprise when I measured resistance between USB Ground and USB Vcc, 164k ohms in one direction, 1M ohms in the other direction. IMO Ttripltek has a diode in the cable modification. I don't understand its function.

Regards,
Richard
 
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Hi Ranger, IMO 20 ohms will make for a more reliable cable to use than 39 ohns. Put two 39 ohm resistors in parallel.

Just for grins I measured the resistance of the $40 Tripltek cable:
USB Ground: 13 ohms
USB Data +: 0 ohms
USB Data -: 0 ohms
USB Vcc: 0 ohms
However, there was a surprise when I measured resistance between USB Ground and USB Vcc, 164k ohms in one direction, 1M ohms in the other direction. IMO Ttripltek has a diode in the cable modification. I don't understand its function.

Regards,
Richard
Yes, a little less resistance would probably be better but, the cable is already completed and I don’t have any desire to redo everything for a 3rd time!

I had to cut and re-solder everything for a second time last night because the cable was acting like a standard cable even with the resistor installed. What I found was that after soldering the outside braiding it allowed amps to flow bypassing the resistor! As soon as I cut the braiding the amps completely dropped off but I had to cut off all of my heat shrink to get to to the braiding.

It works now and the Autel explorer app pops up when I power on the controller so, I’m going with that for now!

Just for giggles, I think I might try to get some of those connectors you referenced above and make a 90 deg. connector.
 
Hi Ranger, IMO 20 ohms will make for a more reliable cable to use than 39 ohns. Put two 39 ohm resistors in parallel.

Just for grins I measured the resistance of the $40 Tripltek cable:
USB Ground: 13 ohms
USB Data +: 0 ohms
USB Data -: 0 ohms
USB Vcc: 0 ohms
However, there was a surprise when I measured resistance between USB Ground and USB Vcc, 164k ohms in one direction, 1M ohms in the other direction. IMO Ttripltek has a diode in the cable modification. I don't understand its function.

Regards,
Richard
164k ohms in one direction definitel verifies a diode in that circuit! I don’t understand why there’s no continuity between the D+ & D- wires….those wires carry the communications signal between the TT tablet and controller.

Not the there should be continuity “between” the d+ & d-…but there should at least be some continuity through the cable as measured from d+/d+ & d-/d-….
 
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I don't understand its function.
from your description I'd call them protection,, or blocking diodes. typically used in cases where someone "can" reverse polarity, the diode blow rather than the connected devise.
ZERO ohms is perfect conductivity
 
I misunderstood his post to say there was "no" continuity on those wires....Yes, reverse polarity protection...but usb connectors are "polarized" so they can only be plugged in "one" way. Not sure why they would feel the need to install one for reverse polarity protection...
 
so they can only be plugged in "one" way.
LOL, I fixed/tuned n installed CB radios in the '70's the power connector could only be put in "one way" I did 3-5 units a week with blown protection diodes. The owner said it's a flat $25 repair, when I asked, since it was 1/2hr labor $4.00 and 50cent part.
He laughed, said "any moron that can manage to get RED and BLACK reversed Is dumb enough to pay $25
 

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